| Author | Message | ||
     Randy Adams Member Username: Randy_adams Post Number: 2904 Registered: 03-2005 |
I'm going to be in Edinburgh for a few days in mid-May. I will be accompanied by one other musical person and also a very non-musical person. Well, forget the nonmusical person: where should I go and what should I do? I know record shops are disappearing with alarming speed but are there any good ones remaining? Any clubs whose websites I should be checking out? | ||
| skulldisco Member Username: Skulldisco Post Number: 1680 Registered: 10-2008 |
I much prefer Glasgow myself Randy, try and visit if you can - about 40 or 50 mins from Edinburgh in the faster trains. As for Edinburgh, Avalanche and Vinyl Villains are good shops, or at least they were years ago. They may have downsized since the last time I was there. The Liquid Room in Edinburgh is a fantastic venue. It does club nights as well as putting on bands. | ||
| Burgers Member Username: Burgers Post Number: 35 Registered: 05-2005 |
I've lived here for 15 years. There are a number of decent venues but generally touring bands play Glasgow instead. There are a few second hand record shops including Vinyl Villians. Avalanche's former store was the site of the Go-Betweens last performance in Scotland. Their current store is no more than okay. The Liquid Room is indeed a good venue. Check out Sneaky Pete's. I saw Allo Darlin' there recently. They got a bit wearing after a while but they have some good songs including Talullah which isn't about Talullah enough but is still worth tracking down. Edinburgh is a mess with tram works at the moment but there are still lots of interesting things to see and do. | ||
| Pádraig Collins Member Username: Pádraig_collins Post Number: 4404 Registered: 05-2005 |
Randy and Kevin, I have a plan. You meet halfway in Falkirk - about 25 minutes from either city. | ||
| skulldisco Member Username: Skulldisco Post Number: 1682 Registered: 10-2008 |
I'm sure Randy has little enough time on his hands without wasting any of it with me Padraig :-) Besides I will be in Rome in mid May with my good lady. Seems like our stars are not aligned Randy, I recall landing in Brisbane (en route to Cairns)just a day or so the wrong side of you guys meeting in Brisbane for the Robert gigs in 2007! | ||
| Pádraig Collins Member Username: Pádraig_collins Post Number: 4406 Registered: 05-2005 |
Yeah, that sucked to be so near yet so far from you at Robert's 2007 gigs Kevin. Randy, it's 15 years since I've been to Edinburgh. I recall some good record shops, but that was in the halcyon pre-Amazon, pre-Napster days. | ||
| Randy Adams Member Username: Randy_adams Post Number: 2906 Registered: 03-2005 |
Kevin, I remember thinking that you and I were probably in Brisbane's airport at the same time when I was standing in line to go through security for my flight back to the U.S.. Rome sounds great; I haven't been. But I haven't been to Edinburgh either. This trip is anchored by a concert in London at the Barbican on May 23 in honor of Sandy Denny. | ||
| Jeff Whiteaker Member Username: Jeff_whiteaker Post Number: 2385 Registered: 10-2004 |
Ah, Rome. That should be a blast! I really want to go back to Rome while I'm still living a mere 1 1/2 hour plane ride away from it. In the meantime, we're hoping to make it down to Budapest later this month for an extended weekend getaway. | ||
| skulldisco Member Username: Skulldisco Post Number: 1685 Registered: 10-2008 |
Budapest is on my "list" Jeff. So is Vienna and Lisbon. Funnily enough Rome was my choice, usually my wife wins out on deciding where we go on these spring breaks. Over the last decade or so we have been to Barcelona, Prague, Krakow, Stockholm, Paris and Berlin. Its the only time we get a break away from the kids! She has been to Rome before, so that should be handy as she will know her way about to a certain extent. | ||
| Jeff Whiteaker Member Username: Jeff_whiteaker Post Number: 2386 Registered: 10-2004 |
Kevin, Budapest is pretty close to Bratislava (two and a half hours by train), so the fact that we haven't gone there yet is actually kind of silly. Everyone I know who has been to Budapest has raved about it. I really like Prague. My wife has several friends there, and it's only a 4-hour train ride from Bratislava, so we've definitely taken advantage of that. I'm jealous that you've been to Krakow, Kevin, as that's high on my list, and I've never been. Strangely enough, even though Krakow is little more than an hour away by plane, the airfare from Bratislava/Vienna is ridiculously high. You have to persistently hunt for good deals. And the train takes like 9 hours or something. It's so close, and yet so difficult to get to from here! But Vienna is a short hour-long train ride away from Bratislava, so it's become a fun and convenient day-trip destination. Vienna is not my favorite large European city, but there's definitely a lot to like about it. Rome will be fun. It's a fascinating city. | ||
| Rob Brookman Member Username: Rob_b Post Number: 1647 Registered: 08-2006 |
Wow, jealous, Kev. I was in Rome for a week last fall and it was one hell of a time. It's one city I've been to where doing the touristy things was perfectly acceptable - and frequently awe-inspiring. The walk through Palatine hill and the Roman Forum was a multi-hour experience I'll never forget. A little advice: bring comfortable shoes. It's a great walking city (I think I did about 7 miles a day) and there isn't a level surface in the whole city. | ||
| skulldisco Member Username: Skulldisco Post Number: 1686 Registered: 10-2008 |
Jeff, Krakow is one of the smallest cities I have been too, but means its easier to get around. We visited Auschwitz which was about an hour away in the bus. Its the most chilling place I have ever been too, there is an air of despair that hangs over the whole place. The displays of the personal effects of the Jewish prisoners - mountains of shoes, suitcases, spectacles, hair brushes etc is just heartbreaking in the extreme. Thanks for the advice Rob, we do tend to do a lot of walking on these visits to try and cram in as much as possible. | ||
| Stuart Wilson Member Username: Stuart Post Number: 552 Registered: 10-2006 |
Edinburgh courtyard in July Hot light is smeared as thick as paint On these ramshackle tenements. Stones smell Of dust. Their hoisting into quaint Crowsteps, corbels, carved with fool and saint, Holds fathoms of heat, like water in a well. Cliff-dwellers have poked out from their High cave-mouths brilliant rags on drying-lines; They hang still, dazzling in the glare, And lead the eye up, ledge by ledge, to where A chimney’s tilted helmet winks and shines. And water from a broken drain Splashes a glassy hand out in the air That breaks in an unbraiding rain And falls still fraying, to become a stain That spreads by footsteps, ghosting everywhere. (Norman MacCaig) | ||
| Andrew Kerr Member Username: Andrew_k Post Number: 709 Registered: 04-2005 |
Randy, I lived in Edinburgh for 20 years and I think that it should be a great place for you to visit. Excellent bus service for getting around (although somewhat screwed up by the tram works I imagine), but the centre is pretty small and very walkable. Like Rome lots of hills though. Be sure to climb to the top of Arthur's Seat (an extinct volcano) for a great 360 degree view (if it's not raining!). What else ? Explore the crescents of the New Town, walk along the Water of Leith from Canonmills to Dean village, visit the revamped museum of Scotland in Chamber Street, the Modern Art Gallery, nice cafe in the Portrait Gallery in Queen Street, cheese shop in Victoria Street, the Filmhouse bar in Lothian Road, go and watch the cricket on The Meadows, the lovely Botanic Gardens... Quality footwear, sir ? Barnetts in the High Street. Hope that it is still there ! The place for Doc Martens. The High Street (or Royal Mile) runs from the castle down to Holyrood Palace (The Queen's Edinburgh abode) and is worth a stroll, with some priceless displays of tartan tourist tack. If you get any sun take a 26 bus down to Portobello and lie on the beach. It is Edinburgh's seaside resort and where I lived before leaving Scotland. It has a great Victorian swimming pool, with original steam rooms. "Avalanche" for records : is it just the one in Cockburn Street now ? "Vinyl Villains" (top of Leith Walk) used to be good for secondhand stuff and is where I once bumped into Martin Phillips of the Chills ! There are a few open-mike spots in clubs (http://www.outofthebedroom.co.uk/ootb/), so grab a guitar and regale the natives with a selection of songs from 'New Runes'...? Like Kevin says try and go to Glasgow as well. It has the feel of a 'proper' city that Edinburgh does not. And people always say that Glaswegians are more friendly than people from Edinburgh. And maybe they are right !? The Charles Rennie Mackintosh designed Art School is an amazing building. For record shops, I think that Monorail is supposed to be good http://drphunk.blogspot.fr/2011/04/why-m onorail-records-in-glasgow-is-best.html | ||
| Stuart Wilson Member Username: Stuart Post Number: 553 Registered: 10-2006 |
I know it's always been the fashion to moan about Edinburgh, slag off the Festival, say the inhabitants are snooty, etc, but aesthetically it knocks Glasgow into a cocked hat. With a day free,though, wouldn't it be better to rent a car and head for the hills and do a castle or two? But as Andrew says, the Mackintosh art school is a fantastic building - is it possible to tour round it though? My Edinburgh local used to be the Jolly Judge up near the castle, though the manager was a bampot; but it's probably changed hands since then. It was a cosy place to while away an hour or two. Meanwhile,walking from Leith Walk to Queensferry Street through the New Town on a sunny afternoon with a pocketful of satsumas was always a pleasantly dizzying experience. | ||
| skulldisco Member Username: Skulldisco Post Number: 1690 Registered: 10-2008 |
Aesthetically Edinburgh may be better, but I think Glasgow is superior in a totally non cultural way:-) For Randy's benefit, a bampot is a Scottish term for an idiot, somebody a bit unhinged!! Renting a car is a great idea, after all Scotland is a very small country and as Stuart says you could take in a castle or two. Although of course Edinburgh has its own castle which is incredibly close to the city centre so no real travelling involved. The pubs in Rose Street would give you a taste of a typical city centre Scottish pub, there are loads, but if you made it from one end of Rose Street to the other without being mindlessly drunk you would have the constitution of an ox! | ||
| Stuart Wilson Member Username: Stuart Post Number: 554 Registered: 10-2006 |
Two real "American in Edinburgh" stories. 1) In Princes Street: Large American tourist: "Scuse me son, can you tell me where the castle might be now?" Me (pointing): "Well,er, that's it up there..." Large American wife: "Aw jees, that li'l old thing?" 2) Festival ticket queue in August. Two brisk American ladies of indeterminate age and me, shivering under chill pelting rain. American lady of indeterminate age (through chattering teeth): "You know, son, this cultural festival of yours is surely a mighty fine thing, but tell me now: why don't you hold it in the summer?" | ||
| Randy Adams Member Username: Randy_adams Post Number: 2909 Registered: 03-2005 |
Thank you all for the ideas. We are planning to take the train to Glasgow for one day. Andrew, I very much want to see the Mackintosh building. Stuart, Padraig can vouch that I'm not that large but your warning about the weather is duly noted. One of our number (currently living in Texas) wanted to rent a car which I nixed because as a Los Angeleno I associate vacations with never having to get behind the wheel of a car (though I did relent and drive from Switzerland to Strasbourg one time--I got a speeding ticket from a Swiss camera for my efforts). I'm also worried about making a turn and putting the car in the wrong damn lane. Having seen "Trainspotting" I wonder if I'll be able to understand a single thing anyone tries to say to me. Thanks for the translation of "bampot." Now if I can figure out what a "satsuma" is . . . . I'm a big worrier before the fact. And I always have a great time. | ||
| Jeff Whiteaker Member Username: Jeff_whiteaker Post Number: 2389 Registered: 10-2004 |
So, apparently only Americans of the large, dim variety visit Edinburgh? | ||
| Rob Brookman Member Username: Rob_b Post Number: 1648 Registered: 08-2006 |
They must get a lot of Chicago southsiders. | ||
| Andrew Kerr Member Username: Andrew_k Post Number: 710 Registered: 04-2005 |
Castles ! Craigmillar castle in um, Craigmillar (a less salubrious suburb of Edinburgh)is well worth a visit. Mary, Queens of Scots stayed there. But my favourite in all the world is Tantallon, out beyond North Berwick (about 25 miles from Edinburgh). On a autumn day with the sun low in the sky, the rose colour of the stone is beautiful and you have great view onto the Bass Rock. I'm getting all homesick. The other story about American tourists is the one where they ask the Edinburgh taxi driver why the stone of the castle is so black. He replies because of its proximity to Waverley train station and the age of steam trains. "Shame that they built it so close to the railway station then" comes the reaction... | ||
| Pádraig Collins Member Username: Pádraig_collins Post Number: 4433 Registered: 05-2005 |
Stuart, Randy is 6'4" and about 250 pounds. When he was in Brisbane we were calling him "Big Bubba". But only behind his back. We were too afraid to say it to his face. (Not really) That woman in your second story sounds very funny. I'm sure you realise she was being ironic, don't you Stuart? (Contrary to popular opinion, some Americans do do irony!). | ||
| Pádraig Collins Member Username: Pádraig_collins Post Number: 4434 Registered: 05-2005 |
Damn, because the search results page doesn't include apostrophes for some reason, it now looks like I'm saying Randy is 64 rather than 6'4". Neither is true! Sorry Randy, this joke isn't funny. | ||
| Stuart Wilson Member Username: Stuart Post Number: 555 Registered: 10-2006 |
I actually have the feeling that it was the first couple who were pulling my leg and the second woman who was in earnest! And of course, finally, Randy, you can drink your fill of that exotic and mysterious concoction known as Irn Bru... | ||
| skulldisco Member Username: Skulldisco Post Number: 1695 Registered: 10-2008 |
And remember Randy, Irn Bru is wonderful to drink at any time. However, if you have a whiskey or beer too many, its a wonderful pick me up the following day!! Other delicacies you may like to sample are "A fish supper" - basically Fried fish in batter and thickly cut chips (as opposed to thinly cut french fries - yeuch!!),bought from a "Fish and chip shop". Make sure you ask for lashings of salt and vinegar on it!! http://www.bordersrugby.net/Ads%20on%20F ile/PEEBLES%20FISH%20BAR/fish%20supper%2 01.JPG "A roll on square sausage" - the Scottish equivalent of a hamburger, best accompanied with HP Brown sauce or Tomato ketchup http://braisinghell.files.wordpress.com/ 2011/08/lorne-sausage-1.jpg "A Scotch pie", basically mince encased in pastry - can be bought from any bakery - again best tasted with HP Brown sauce or Tomato ketchup http://www.stobbsthebaker.co.uk/i/Scotch Pie2.jpg And finally , and predictably - "haggis, neeps and tatties" - or in English "sheep or calf's offal, mashed potatoes and mashed turnip" http://greenpins.files.wordpress.com/201 0/09/7762-mmmm-haggis-0.jpg. It tastes a lot better than it sounds, especailly if the haggis is quite spicy!! Thats just for starters, I'm sure others can add more suggestions. If you are like myself you will be a great believer in sampling a countries local delicacies. Its one of the many joys of travelling. | ||
| Randy Adams Member Username: Randy_adams Post Number: 2944 Registered: 03-2005 |
People in Edinburgh seem universally apologetic about the weather here. | ||
| Michael Bachman Member Username: Michael_bachman Post Number: 2372 Registered: 01-2005 |
Randy, Same thing in Michigan's Upper Penninsula. The U.P. might be the closest thing that we have to Scotland in the US. No haggis, but plenty of locally made pasties and smoked whitefish from Lake Superior. Yoopers are making noise about splitting from Michigan again and become the 51st state. They refer to us Lower Penninsula folks as trolls, because we live under the Mackinaw Bridge! It really is a totally different atmosphere in the UP. | ||
| Rob Brookman Member Username: Rob_b Post Number: 1661 Registered: 08-2006 |
That's totally true, Michael. I've spent more time in the UP than anywhere other than Chicago and Ohio (where I went to college) and it is its own little slice of local color. I've been going up there for probably 40 years (and how it pains me to say that) and I'm always amazed how little changes. I'm actually going up for a fishing trip next weekend. Never been to Scotland, but from the little I know, I could see how the comparison could be apt. They call us FIPs (F**king Illinois People), BTW. | ||
| Michael Bachman Member Username: Michael_bachman Post Number: 2373 Registered: 01-2005 |
Rob, I remember you mentioning that you go fishing up there a lot. It's been too long since I've been to the UP. I would love to backpack Isle Royale again as well. I just though of another U.P. and Scotland connection, although on a more personal note. I had my first single malt Scotch (Glenfiddich) at Paul's Supper Club in Silver City at the edge of the Porcupine Mountains. We went there after a four day canoe trip on the Ontonogon River. | ||
| Hugh Nimmo Member Username: Hugh_nimmo Post Number: 385 Registered: 03-2007 |
Randy, How was the concert? I am not as concerned as you about the dying-record-store-phenomenon as those that I frequent have not stocked the titles I am interested in for many years. I am more concerned about the demise of small record labels/retailers such as Parasol and Matinee Recordings. Parasol was a great source of Swedish titles at sensible prices. Don't be too hard on the small independant U.K. record shops as even AmazonUK does not stock the majority of Dominque A titles. You have been very complimentary about him recently so I ordered a title from the beginning of his career ( La Memoire Neuve ) and a more recent title ( Vers Les Lueurs ) yesterday. | ||
| skulldisco Member Username: Skulldisco Post Number: 1801 Registered: 10-2008 |
Although you got decent weather while in Edinburgh Randy, it looks like you were just a bit out with the timing because the temperatures over the last few days in Scotland have been mid to high 20s, which must be a bloody all time record for May!!!! Although my definition of decent is probably your definition of arctic conditions :-) Only a few weeks ago we were still getting frost in the early mornings!! | ||
| Randy Adams Member Username: Randy_adams Post Number: 2956 Registered: 03-2005 |
Weather has been interesting. I came well prepared for the weather I first encountered in Edinburgh. It is a very good thing that my accommodations in London include a washer/dryer because it has been hotter in London most days I've been here than it has been for the same days in Los Angeles! Most of the clothes I brought are hopelessly heavy and warm so I'm having to wash and re-use the limited warm weather clothes I packed. It's actually kind of scary, this weather business. To date, climate change has meant milder weather in Los Angeles while the weather has been bizarre everywhere else. So while the locals have been reveling in the weather I've been grumbling about the heat. Hugh, the Barbican concert was enjoyable. There were a couple "names" involved, Maddy Prior and Green Gartside and the big name from my perspective--P. P. Arnold. Most of the singers were unfamiliar to me. The band was excellent, even including a few appearances by Dave Swarbrick. There was a young American woman included who I would have left out; she made me think of Sandra Bernhard, totally unsuitable. Bringing P. P. Arnold in to do a couple soul-inflected interpretations of Sandy Denny songs was inspired. P. P. Recorded a lot of unusual songs back in the day and she sang backup on a Nick Drake album. | ||
| Randy Adams Member Username: Randy_adams Post Number: 2957 Registered: 03-2005 |
Hugh, Vers les leuers is a great album start to finish. Looking back at Andrew's entry I wish I'd reviewed it shortly before arriving. Between the necessary compromise inherent in traveling with two other persons and the fact that I was badly jet lagged for most of the days in Edinburgh there's an awful lot I didn't see. I'll be back. The day trip to Glasgow obviously wasn't sufficient either but at least I got to Kelvingrove Art Gallery after walking in circles. | ||
| Pádraig Collins Member Username: Pádraig_collins Post Number: 4594 Registered: 05-2005 |
Kelvingrove is wonderful, isn't it Randy? And yeah, it is hard to find! | ||
| Pádraig Collins Member Username: Pádraig_collins Post Number: 4595 Registered: 05-2005 |
Is Rodin's The Thinker still on display? | ||
| Randy Adams Member Username: Randy_adams Post Number: 2958 Registered: 03-2005 |
Padraig, we were so late we had only 90 minutes. I went to Charles Mackintosh exhibit and then followed the stream-of-consciousness exhibit from there which I thought was a great arrangement of exhibits but saw no Rodin. Obviously another visit is imperative. |